Why Hexham Old Gaol makes for an eye-opening autumn visit

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In a new weekly series exploring the Tyne Valley Line, University of Sunderland student Eleanor Tait uncovers the best attractions, rich history and hidden gems along the route. This week, she visits Hexham Old Gaol, where tales of punishment make for an eye-opening autumn visit.

Once a place which filled the people of Hexham and beyond with fear and dread, Hexham Old Gaol is home to a grisly history of punishment, plague, and plunder, which makes for an eye-opening weekend haunt this autumn.

Built nearly seven centuries ago in 1333, it is thought that Hexham Old Gaol is the oldest standing purpose-built prison in England and is constructed from the stone found at Corbridge Roman Fort.

In its time, the gaol saw thieves, murderers, and rebels shackled and tortured behind bars and the level of degradation depended on how much you could bribe the gaoler for privileges.

The poorest prisoners were kept in its cold, dank dungeon where typhus and plague infected inmates and rats and lice ran rampant, while richer prisoners could buy their way into a more comfortable existence upstairs with better food and bedding.

The Old Gaol mainly served as a pre-trial prison, meaning inmates were kept there before they were taken to the Moot Hall, just opposite the gaol, to be tried.

After the trial, prisoners would be acquitted and freed or brutally punished – this could range from a simple fine, to humiliation in the stocks, branding, amputation, or hanging.

Image credit: Eleanor Tait – prisoners faced brutal punishments for minor crimes in medieval Hexham.

But now the building hosts a much more enticing attraction.

A working prison up until the 1820s, the gaol was transformed into a bank and solicitor’s office before it rediscovered its historical roots as a museum and visitor attraction.

Welcoming visitors from the depths of its dungeons up three floors of fascinating exhibits, Hexham Old Gaol evokes plenty of the past – without any of the rats.

From the chance to see real-life stocks to the skull of Sir John Fenwick, still bearing the battle wounds from his death in 1644, Hexham Old Gaol offers an engrossing insight into the brutal reality of life for our Northumbrian ancestors from the medieval to the present day with its interactive exhibits.

With under 18s entering for free there are plenty of activities for the kids, including a dressing up room, colouring in, reading corner and mini museum.

An engaging afternoon for all the family, the site also welcomes dogs making it the perfect historical detour during a weekend walk.

Image credit: Eleanor Tait – the skull of Sir John Fenwick  who was killed at the Battle of Marston Moor fighting for the Royalist cause in 1644.

Several of the exhibition rooms bear the names of famous - or rather, infamous - Northumberland families, including the Charltons, Dodds, and Fenwicks who were feared across the Border region as Reivers – raiding families who stole cattle, ruined property, and spilt blood through their notorious feuds.

Northumberland’s towns and villages were at the heart of many Border Reiver conflicts and Hexham is famous in these clans’ history for the gaolbreak that occurred there in 1538.

Always out to protect their own at deadly cost to others, Reiver horsemen broke into Hexham Old Gaol and successfully freed a Catholic priest and several of their own men being held there.

Image credit: Eleanor Tait – the Border Reivers’ reign of terror lasted from 14th to the 17th century and saw lawless, deadly clans murder and pillage towns across the Anglo-Scottish border

The raid attracted the attention of Henry VIII, who feared the influence of the Catholic priest preaching against his newly introduced Protestant policies and the Reivers involved were brought in front of the King to explain their actions.

Luckily for these border rebels, they were all pardoned and avoided Henry’s enthusiasm for execution – but the escaped priest was later captured, interrogated and killed.

These days, the Old Gaol continues to stand firm as one of Hexham’s most unique and imposing buildings, sharing the history of Northumbrian life from its food to fighting for justice, and it’s certainly more welcoming than it used to be.

With family-friendly tours running all year round, free entry for under 18s and dogs welcome across the site, Hexham Old Gaol is the perfect choice for a bone-chillingly good autumn escape.

Hexham Old Gaol is open Wednesdays to Sundays, 10am-4pm. Admission is £8 for adults and £7 for concessions with under 18s going free.

More information about Hexham Old Gaol can be found here.

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